At a quaint wine boutique nestled just an hour away from Washington D.C., owner Arthur Lampros found himself mesmerized by the intricate flavors of a wine sourced from an unexpected corner of the globe. As he savored the unfamiliar yet intriguing taste, he pondered whether the vineyards were near any significant body of water that would temper local weather extremes. Absolutely, confirmed Giorgi Iukuridze, a proud Ukrainian winery owner, referencing the Black Sea adjacent to Odesa, which nurtures the vineyards with its moderating climate.
Joining Iukuridze in this noble mission to introduce modern Ukrainian wines to the American audience is Sam Lerman, a veteran of the U.S. Air Force. Alongside former U.S. military officials and diplomats, they strive to reshape America's perception of Ukraine—from a country ravaged by conflict to one rich in heritage and resilience. As the wines find their way across the Atlantic, Lerman emphasizes that this initiative aims to reveal Ukraine's enduring spirit beyond the battlefields.
Kurt Volker, formerly the U.S. ambassador to NATO and a pivotal figure in U.S.-Ukraine relations, asserts that Ukraine embodies an unwavering determination, driven by hope and dedication. Amidst the ongoing military aid and Russia's aggression, he suggests that this wine venture offers a refreshing perspective on Ukraine's rich cultural history.
Russian President Vladimir Putin's repeated invasions of Ukraine and neighboring countries have inadvertently familiarized many American military personnel with the promising wine regions of the former Soviet Union. Volker himself has a personal connection, having met his winemaker spouse in Georgia following Russia's 2008 invasion, which inspired him to purchase a small winery there. Throughout their endeavors, trips to Ukraine's Shabo winery became routine for insight and inspiration.
For Lerman, the introduction to Ukrainian liquor was serendipitous. In the early days of the 2022 Russian invasion, he found himself in a secure hideout with fellow American vets and Ukrainian allies, unexpectedly coming across a bottle of Ukrainian vodka amidst strategic discussions. I was blown away, Lerman fondly recalls. From that moment, the flavors of Ukraine's prized vodkas and wines followed him back home, prompting him to share them with loved ones.
However, the search for more Ukrainian wines on U.S. shelves was challenging. Limited exports mainly catered to the Ukrainian diaspora with older, sweeter varieties. This shortage inspired Lerman to collaborate with Iukuridze to create Spyrt Worldwide, an import company dedicated to bringing Shabo wines and Ukrainian vodkas to American connoisseurs. A portion of profits is allocated to Invictus Global Response, a veteran-run nonprofit focused on mine removal.
The Black Sea coastline of Ukraine boasts an impressive 2,500-year history of viticulture, richly influenced by Greek settlers. Some vines at the Shabo winery even trace back to the Ottoman era. Swiss settlers in the 19th century advanced the art of winemaking here, capitalizing on the region's fertile soils and favorable climate. Yet, during Soviet rule, wine quality deteriorated significantly, with a focus on mass production of low-quality, sweet wines.
Following the fall of the Soviet Union in 1991, Iukuridze and his father, building on their Georgian lineage in winemaking, revitalized Ukrainian wine production. Today, Shabo wines are internationally acclaimed, featured in Michelin-starred venues. Despite being distant from the conflict frontlines, Shabo’s workers have witnessed occasional nearby rocket blasts, and their sales routes are peppered with military checkpoints. Yet, their resolve remains steadfast, with shipping routes established through Moldova.
The recent unveiling of Spyrt Worldwide saw numerous dignitaries, including Congress members, a former defense secretary, and defense industry leaders, gathered in Washington to celebrate this cultural and economic milestone. The night was a poignant reminder of the dual mission of uniting wine with the hopes of peace. As uncertainty looms over Russia’s military and potential wavering U.S. support, such initiatives champion Ukraine's indomitable spirit.
As a tale of hope, Iukuridze recounted a memory from 2014 when Russia initially invaded Crimea. Amid fleeing turmoil, a family, witnessing the determination of Shabo's head winemaker planting new vines, chose to turn back, inspired by the hope of a thriving Ukraine. Raising a glass of crisp, white Shabo wine, Iukuridze proposed a toast: To the bright future of Ukraine, and as a beacon of resolve.