Business

Reviving History: Cyprus' Commandaria Wine Makes a Bold Comeback Through Micro-Wineries

Reviving History: Cyprus' Commandaria Wine Makes a Bold Comeback Through Micro-Wineries
commandaria
winemaking
cyprus
Key Points
  • Commandaria wine boasts 3,000 years of history, praised by ancient Greek figures.
  • Micro-wineries revive traditional techniques, producing under 5,000 bottles annually.
  • Protected EU status ensures authenticity from 14 Troodos Mountain villages.

Cyprus’ Commandaria, the world’s oldest named wine, is experiencing a renaissance. Once served at royal weddings and celebrated in medieval feasts, this ruby-red sweet wine faced modern market challenges until boutique producers stepped in. Today, micro-wineries like Revecca and Karseras blend ancient methods with innovative approaches, breathing new life into a legendary drink.

The wine’s revival hinges on its unique production process. Sun-dried Mavro and Xynisteri grapes from volcanic soils create honeyed notes of fig and cinnamon. Strict EU regulations mandate aging in oak barrels for two years, preserving traditions dating to the Crusades. Yet, recent years saw production stagnate near 200,000 bottles annually due to shifting tourist demographics and export hurdles.

Industry experts highlight three emerging trends favoring Commandaria: rising demand for artisanal beverages, the marketing power of Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status, and enotourism growth. Revecca Winery exemplifies this shift. Their award-winning Commandaria, crafted by a three-person team in Ayios Mamas, attracts international clients—including an Israeli couple making annual sourcing trips.

While sanctions affecting Russian tourists impacted sales, domestic consumption rose by 18% from 2020–2023. Wineries now target niche markets in Europe and Asia, leveraging Cyprus’ UNESCO-recognized viticulture heritage. As Master of Wines Demetri Walters notes, Commandaria’s complexity defies sweet wine stereotypes—it’s not just a dessert pour, but a conversation piece.

Looking ahead, producers focus on quality consistency and storytelling to conquer global shelves. With micro-wineries leading the charge, Commandaria’s 3,000-year-old legacy is finally uncorking a modern audience.