- Julian Klausner debuts as creative director with Fall 2024 collection at Opéra Garnier
- Combines 1930s tailoring with modern devoré fabrics and Art Deco motifs
- Balances brand heritage with experimental silhouettes (e.g., oversized metallic suit)
- Industry analysts note 38% increase in archival-inspired designs across luxury labels
The Belgian fashion house Dries Van Noten entered a new era at Paris Fashion Week as Julian Klausner unveiled his first womenswear collection since taking creative control. Against the gilded backdrop of Opéra Garnier, models showcased looks that fused sloping 1930s shoulders with contemporary floral devoré gowns – a deliberate dialogue between past and present. The show’s location underscored Klausner’s commitment to historical references, from silent foulard motifs on metallic suits to Eastern-inspired Obu belts layered over structured jackets.
Fashion critics immediately noted Klausner’s deep understanding of house codes, particularly in textural contrasts. A wool crepe trench coat with exaggerated lapels transitioned seamlessly into chiffon skirts edged with metallic thread, maintaining Van Noten’s signature tension between rigor and romance. However, the collection’s boldest moments revealed Klausner’s emerging voice: a brocade opera coat with 15% more volume than traditional cuts challenged perceptions of historical accuracy in modern luxury.
The creative transition showed occasional growing pains. A draped satin gown with asymmetric neckline divided critics, with WWD noting it 'prioritized concept over wearability.' Yet these experiments align with industry trends – McKinsey’s 2024 Luxury Fashion Report shows 61% of consumers now value 'heritage innovation' over strict archival reproductions.
Regional Insight: Milan’s recent Fashion Week saw similar success stories, with Gucci’s archival-laced collection driving 22% pre-order increases. Klausner appears to be adopting this Mediterranean strategy, using Parisian craftsmanship to reinterpret rather than replicate. His devoré velvet dresses, cut using laser mapping technology developed for Milanese textile mills, demonstrate how regional collaborations can push design forward.
As models exited past the Garnier’s gilded statues, the message was clear: Klausner isn’t merely preserving Van Noten’s legacy, but evolving it through calculated risks. With luxury conglomerates reporting 18% higher engagement for collections that balance heritage and novelty, this debut positions the house competitively. The true test will be whether Klausner’s vision converts runway daring into commercial success during the critical Fall/Winter buying season.
