- Kenzo replaces jungle motifs with punk tailoring at Paris Fashion Week
- British streetwear influences merge with deconstructed Savile Row aesthetics
- New creative team unveils metallic rabbit emblem as rebellious symbol
At Paris Fashion Week, Kenzo delivered a seismic shift in design philosophy. The LVMH-owned brand traded its iconic jungle prints for razor-sharp punk silhouettes, signaling a deliberate pivot toward British counterculture influences. Shawl-collared tuxedo jackets fused with kimono draping created tension between formalwear and rebellion, while exposed lingerie details challenged conventional luxury norms.
The show’s underground energy reflected London’s subversive fashion history more than Parisian sophistication. This strategic British spin comes as streetwear dominates 38% of luxury market growth (FY 2023), according to BoF Insights. Kenzo’s blend of harem pants and structured blazers suggests a blueprint for premium urbanwear – polished yet deliberately imperfect.
Creative director Nigo’s absence spotlighted emerging talent Joshua A. Bullen, whose experience at Givenchy shaped the collection’s hybrid tailoring. The looks balanced destruction and precision: frayed hems met military-grade pleating, safety pins accentuated $2,000 coats. This duality mirrors Tokyo’s ambivalent embrace of Western punk – a regional case study seen in brands like Undercover, which reinterpret anarchic themes through Japanese craftsmanship.
Industry analysts note three critical shifts in Kenzo’s strategy: prioritizing gender-fluid silhouettes, embracing ‘luxury grunge’ pricing tiers, and leveraging musical nostalgia (evident in the Sex Pistols-heavy soundtrack). The finale’s crayon-included T-shirts – inviting customization – nod to streetwear’s collaborative ethos while testing post-purchase engagement models.
