Milan Fashion Week is set to experience a dramatic upheaval as Gucci announces the sudden departure of its creative director, Sabato De Sarno. This unexpected move comes just two and a half weeks before the brand's much-anticipated combined womenswear and menswear collection is unveiled on February 25. Gucci's design team will now helm the new collection until a new creative head is appointed, a decision the luxury fashion house promises will be made 'in due time.'
Stefano Cantino, the newly appointed CEO of Gucci, expressed gratitude for De Sarno’s influence on the brand, particularly his commitment to Gucci's craftsmanship and heritage. At the same time, Kering deputy CEO Francesca Bellettini acknowledged his efforts in strengthening Gucci’s foundational values. This change marks yet another chapter in Gucci's storied history, emblematic of the challenges and adaptations the brand has faced over the past few decades.
De Sarno’s tenure, though brief, signified a notable shift from the avant-garde collections crafted by his predecessor, Alessandro Michele. Known for his gender-fluid and eclectic aesthetic that redefined Gucci’s style, Michele’s creations not only captivated global audiences but also drove a surge in Kering's profits. In contrast, De Sarno focused on revisiting essential silhouettes and wardrobe fundamentals, a strategic pivot aimed at attracting a wider audience. However, this approach fell short of the desired commercial success.
The shift has reflected on Kering's financial performance, with a reported 15% decline in third-quarter revenues, amounting to 3.8 billion euros. Gucci itself experienced a more severe impact, with revenues plummeting by 26% to 1.6 billion euros, signaling a need for a new strategic direction to reinstate the brand's iconic status in the luxury market.
This isn’t the first instance of Gucci undergoing creative transitions under tight conditions. In January 2015, just as fashion enthusiasts gathered for a menswear preview, Frida Giannini's departure was announced. The subsequent collection, led by Alessandro Michele, introduced groundbreaking designs that included the now-iconic pussy bow blouses for men.
Sabato De Sarno’s contribution to the fashion industry continues as he transitions from Valentino, where he previously served as fashion director, to influencing new directions in his career. Meanwhile, Alessandro Michele has found a new creative home at the esteemed Rome-based Valentino, continually shaping fashion narratives.
The fashion world brims with speculation as Gucci navigates this leadership transition. This announcement coincides with several notable exits within top fashion houses, including Kim Jones' departure from Dior's menswear collections. These movements highlight a period of dynamic change and reinvention within the haute couture industry.
The upcoming Milan Fashion Week will now not only showcase stunning designs but also serve as a pivotal moment for Gucci as it showcases a collection born from a unique creative synergy within its design team. Fashion aficionados and industry experts eagerly await the unveiling, which could dictate future trends and redefine Gucci’s trajectory.
